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Does your current adult novelty toy leave you wanting? Are battery costs ruining your budget? Are you sick of recharging batteries? Do you wish that your toy had just a little more lust in its thrust? Then you have come to the right place as the good Doctor is about to show you how to take your pleasure to the next level. I have always been a big fan of pushing equipment to its limit, whether it be modifying my computer (overclocking, water-cooling, custom case – see www.hardocp.com for info on maxing out your PC) or pimpin out the Phreakmobile. So I thought what if the same could be done for adult novelty toys? The following is a “how to” guide for modifying battery operated novelty toys – with the Original Jack Rabbit™ by California Exotic Novelties (www.calexotics.com) as the guinea pig. Warning, doing this modification could void your toy warranty (if it has one), result in overheating (if you run above toys regular voltage), and lead to unknown pleasures – do so at your own risk! Disclaimer: Attempt this at your own risk. No one at SiliconSlave or ToyTek Media assumes any responsibilities for you following these instructions. Consult with your physician before utilizing any of the advice given in this article concerning the construction or use of a modified sex toy. This article is purely for novelty and entertainment purposes.Actual modification of a toy in the method prescribed could lead to overheating, fire, burns, battery leakage, explosions, and other unforeseen risks. In order to make sure just about anybody can perform this modification, I used products available from the local Walmart and regular house-hold tools (finger nail clippers). While at the department store I picked up a Universal AC Adapter (PowerLine 3-12 Volts DC/1000 mA – model 0900-33 - $15.94 – Electronics Department) and Electrical Tape (3/4 inch wide - $0.47 – Hardware Department). There are many Universal AC Adapters to choose from so be careful in selecting one – it should have a good voltage range that includes your default voltage (4.5V for Jack Rabbit) and it should have a decent current rating -1000 mA ( this is where some cheaper adapters fall short with currents of 300 mA).
 STEP 1: Power Supply The first step in this procedure is to take the Universal Adapter out of its package and unwind its power lead. Take a pair of sharp finger nail clippers and cut the lead about 8 inches from the end of the lead. Once the led has been snipped, place the 8 inch end section aside. Now take the lead attached to the adapter and separate the lead into two wires (wires should pull apart, finger-nail clippers can be used to help start the separation), separate about 6 inches of lead. Now you should have two leads (one with a white stripe – is the positive terminal, other is the negative terminal). Carefully use the finger nail clippers to remove the coating on the lead ends (about ¾ of an inch). Be careful not to cut the copper wires inside. When you are done you should have the AC Adapter with two lead ends with ¾ inch copper tips exposed.  STEP
2: BatteriesThe second step is to attach the leads to your batteries. In order to ensure that the batteries don’t receive voltage or can conduct a charge it is important to break the conductivity connection. Conductivity can be interrupted by taking a piece of electrical tape and wrapping it around the middle battery – only use one layer as any extra thickness will make it hard to insert the batteries. The tape should be wound from terminal to terminal on the battery. Prepare the leads for attachment to the batteries by folding the copper tip back towards the insulating wrap on the lead. Now wrap the tape around the battery such that the positive lead insulation is next to the positive pole of the battery and the tape goes between the lead insulation and the copper tip. Wrap the tape around the second battery so that the negative lead insulation is next to the negative pole of the battery and the tape goes between the lead insulation and the copper tip.  Now that the leads have been attached, the copper tips should be bent in a swirl such that they will make good contact inside your toy – essentially we are substituting the batteries regular pole for our home-made poles. STEP 3: The Case In order for the leads to be able to exit the toy’s controller when it is close it is necessary to create an exit hole. A pair of finger nail clippers can be used to nibble a hole for the leads to exit. I picked a thin area of the controller casing’s hatch near its end to nibble my hole. Make sure the hole is just big enough for the leads to exit when the case is closed. Insert the battery with the copper leads on the negative pole first with the copper facing the top of the case (towards the controls). It will be a tight fit, be careful not to dislodge the lead from the battery tip. Once the first battery is in, the second battery can be inserted with its negative pole going in first. It might be necessary to use the second battery to firmly insert the first battery. The final battery should be inserted such that its copper lead is facing the bottom of the controller case. Tuck the wires along the side of the casing so that the hatch can close.
The controller case should be ready to close and the leads should exit through the nibbled hole.   STEP 4:
TESTING!The modification of the Jack Rabbit is now complete, now comes the fun part testing! The AC Adapter has various settings. The setting closest to the default voltage for the Jack Rabbit is 4.5V – this should give you the regular experience you are used to receiving with the toy. If you are modifying another toy the easiest way to find your default voltage is to add up the volts on your batteries (for example, 3 x 1.5V = 4.5V). At the default voltage, the toy should operate normally and not run into overheating problems. The toy should also be okay with settings below default voltage (in case you want to run your toy slower). Any setting above default voltage is pushing your toy beyond its originally intended limits – so be careful. Plug the adapter into an outlet or an extension cord and your toy should be able to operate with its existing controls.  Let's go Super Freaky! Now if you truly want to go freaky and run the toy at higher then default voltages for longer periods of time, you will need to find a way to deal with the heat. Perhaps you already find that natural liquid cooling has been enough to keep the toy from overheating. However if you truly want to beat the heat, you’ll need to perform an expert modification – not for the faint of heart. You will need small heat sinks, a razor blade, thermal epoxy (I used Arctic Silver – www.arcticsilver.com), silicone sealer (aquarium safe), cue-tip, and alcohol to complete this modification. I used some small heat sinks scavenged off an old video card; there are many online sources for heat sinks.  Heat Sinks are a GO! In order to attach the heat sinks, you’ll need to cut through the sheathing to the motors inside. Use the heat sink as the template for your cut and be careful not to over-cut (make sure heat-sinks are located towards the bottom of the toy to ensure comfortable insertion). Make sure that all your corners are precise as over-cuts could lead to sheath tearing. Once the sheath has been removed, clean the motor casing with a cue-tip and alcohol. Mix some thermal epoxy and apply it to the bottom of the heat sinks. The heat sinks should now be able to be attached to the casing of the motor through the holes in the sheath. Let the heat sinks set for the time recommended by your epoxy vendor. To seal up the toy, take some aquarium safe silicone and run it along the edges to ensure a good seal. So what were the results? Let’s just say that the Jack Rabbit is now the Super Jack Rabbit. My patients have been thrilled with the results and can’t wait to modify their favorite toys. Now more then ever it is important to make sure that the toy is clean (especially with the heat sinks), so don’t be a fool – clean your tool!  Disclaimer: Attempt this at your own risk. No one at SiliconSlave or ToyTek Media assumes any responsibilities for you following these instructions. Consult with your physician before utilizing any of the advice given in this article concerning the construction or use of a modified sex toy. This article is purely for novelty and entertainment purposes.Actual modification of a toy in the method prescribed could lead to overheating, fire, burns, battery leakage, explosions, and other unforeseen risks. |
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